Wood fired or electric: an honest comparison

This is the decision most people agonise over, and the honest answer is that both are good. They are good at different things, and the right one for you depends far less on which is technically superior and far more on how you actually intend to use it, where you live, and how much ritual you want in your evening.

What follows is the comparison we would give a friend, including the parts that are inconvenient for us to say.

The short version

	Wood fired	Electric
Heat up time	Typically 45 to 90 minutes	Typically 30 to 60 minutes
Effort per session	Real: lighting, feeding, ash	Effectively none
Running cost	Cost of logs, no meter	Metered, and easy to calculate
Electrical work needed	Usually none	Usually a dedicated supply
Siting constraints	Flue, clearances, smoke rules	Cable route only
Spontaneous use	Poor	Excellent
The experience	Hard to beat	Very good, quieter

The case for wood

The heat is different. That is not romance, it is physics: a wood stove produces a more radiant, drier heat with a rolling quality to it, and the sound and the smell are a genuine part of why people love saunas. If you have a garden with space, and the ritual is the point, wood fired is a very hard thing to argue against.

It also frees you from the grid. No supply to install, no cable to route, nothing to trip. For a garden at the end of a long plot, or a cabin somewhere without easy power, wood is sometimes the only sensible answer rather than the romantic one.

The case against wood

It is a commitment. Somebody has to lay it, light it, and come back to feed it. Somebody has to clear the ash and sweep the flue. And crucially, somebody has to decide forty minutes before they want to use it that they want to use it. On a Tuesday in February, when the honest choice is between a sauna and the sofa, that forty minutes decides more sessions than people expect.

There is also a legal point that is very often missed.

Smoke control areas: check before you buy

Large parts of urban and suburban Britain are designated smoke control areas. In one, you cannot emit smoke from a chimney, and government guidance is explicit that roofed garden structures with a chimney are covered by the same rule as the house. A garden sauna with a flue is exactly that kind of structure.

In a smoke control area you may only burn authorised fuels, unless the appliance itself is on the Defra exempt appliance list. Very few sauna stoves appear on that list. In England the penalty for emitting smoke from a chimney in a smoke control area can run to three hundred pounds, and buying unauthorised fuel for a non approved appliance carries a larger one.

Two phone calls, before you spend anything: your council, and the stove manufacturer.

Ask your local council whether your address is in a smoke control area. If it is, ask the manufacturer whether that specific stove model is Defra exempt, and get the answer in writing. This is not an obscure risk, it is a fifteen minute check that occasionally saves someone several thousand pounds. We would rather you did it than found out afterwards.

The case for electric

You press a button. Forty minutes later it is ready, and it is ready whether or not you feel like being a person who lays a fire. For most people, most of the time, that is the difference between a sauna used twice a week for ten years and a sauna used enthusiastically for one summer.

Electric heaters are also easier to site, easier to control precisely, and available with timers and remote start, which turns a forty minute wait into something you begin on your way home. In a smaller garden, or anywhere near neighbours, the absence of smoke removes a whole category of problem.

What electric costs to run

This one you can calculate, which is a mercy. Take the heater rating in kilowatts, multiply by hours of use, multiply by your unit rate.

Under the Ofgem price cap for July to September 2026, electricity is capped at 26.11 pence per kilowatt hour for a typical direct debit customer, including VAT. A six kilowatt heater running for one hour at that rate is roughly one pound fifty seven of electricity.

In practice the heater draws full power while heating and then cycles to hold temperature, so a session of one hour of heating plus an hour of use typically lands somewhere between one and two pounds, depending on insulation, weather and how hot you like it. Insulation quality moves that number far more than heater brand does.

What wood costs to run

Harder to pin down, because it depends entirely on what you pay for logs. A session typically burns somewhere in the region of ten to fifteen kilos of dry hardwood. If you buy seasoned logs by the crate the cost per session is often broadly comparable to electric. If you have access to your own wood it is close to free. If you buy small bags from a garage forecourt it is considerably more expensive than electric, which surprises people.

Whatever you burn, it must be properly dry. Wet wood produces less heat, more smoke and more tar in the flue, and it is the single commonest reason a wood fired sauna underperforms.

How to actually decide

Three questions settle it for most people.

• How often do you realistically want to use it? Two or three times a week, spontaneously, points hard at electric. Once or twice a week as a deliberate occasion points at wood.
• Are you in a smoke control area? If yes, and the stove you want is not Defra exempt, the decision has been made for you.
• How far is the cabin from your consumer unit? A long cable run through a mature garden is a real cost. Get a rough electrician's figure before you commit either way.

There is no wrong answer here, only a wrong fit. If you tell us your garden, your access, your address and roughly how you picture using it, we will tell you which way we would go and why, including when the answer is the cheaper one.